Willy Chavarria's Subversive Take on Fashion Has Changed Pop Culture For Good

The Mexican American designer, who has dressed Kendrick Lamar and Bad Bunny, has created a brand that's radically cool.

Upon entering Willy Chavarria's vibrant atelier located in Brooklyn's Greenpoint neighborhood, one is immediately immersed in his visionary world. The space features a labyrinth of clothing racks adorned with both luxury and streetwear items from Chavarria's extensive collection, including sleek leather jackets, dramatic flowing trousers, and oversized, structured blazers. These pieces reflect the designer's signature style, deeply rooted in his experiences growing up in the predominantly Latino town of Huron, California.

Despite the busy atmosphere outside, most people in the area remain unaware that Chavarria and his team are crafting the future of pop culture nearby. His designs have gained popularity among some of the music industry's most notable figures, including Kendrick Lamar, Bad Bunny, Justin Bieber, and Billie Eilish, many of whom embraced the brand since its inception in 2015. "Billie was buying stuff on the website," Chavarria, 59, recalls. "Same with Kendrick. To me, it's those kinds of things that remind me what we're actually doing here."

Chavarria has established a brand characterized by its subversive nature, unapologetic ethos, and undeniable coolness. He attributes part of his unique perspective to his bicultural upbringing, with an Irish mother and a Mexican father. Growing up as an only child, he often found solace in his imagination. "I spent a lot of time in my own head," he notes. "That was my favorite place to be. I've never been bored a day in my life."

From a young age, Chavarria exhibited a natural talent for art. "As soon as I was able to pick up a pencil, I started drawing," he reflects. His early sketches often featured women and their garments, a precursor to his future in fashion. After completing high school, he moved to San Francisco, where he attended the Academy of Art University. The city's counterculture and club scene ignited his creativity, particularly influencing his connection to rave and techno music.

Prior to launching his label, Chavarria honed his design skills at Joe Boxer and Ralph Lauren. His brand has always been closely tied to music; a recent collaboration with UGG featured prominent artists Ivan Cornejo and Becky G. Chavarria’s 2026 runway show, Eterno, served not only as a fashion exhibition but also as a visual celebration of Latino joy amid societal challenges, featuring live performances from artists such as Latin Mafia, Mon Laferte, and Lunay. "We are always looking at things that have made us who we are culturally," he states.

The representation he fosters on the runway stands as a political statement in its own right, and Chavarria is unafraid to confront difficult issues. In 2025, he opened his collection with models kneeling on the ground with their hands behind their backs, a powerful gesture acknowledging immigrants detained by ICE. His advocacy extends further; he has served as an ACLU ambassador, designed pieces to support the trans community, and involved day laborers and Latino workers in his shows.

"I am conscious of my approach," he admits. "At the same time, I'm brown, I'm queer, I have a husband. I already have all these strikes against me. I'd rather go down feeling like I did something decent than go down cowering to something vile and evil."

Chavarria envisions future initiatives, including a get-out-the-vote campaign and a concert in collaboration with the ACLU, alongside plans for his next collection. Recently, he has been drawn to bolder, more assertive designs, marking a shift from his previous emphasis on joy and softness. "I'm in this space of kind of like, like toughness. Tough love, not taking shit. The way we present ourselves is probably going to get tougher," he explains, citing current social and political climates as significant influences. "At some point, there's going to be a very serious wake-up call where nobody has a choice but to react… So I want to convey what's attractive and beautiful about making ourselves feel good being tough and being protective of ourselves and one another and standing up for who we are."

Chavarria holds ambitious aspirations for his brand, considering the possibility of a larger presence in Manhattan with an expanded team. "There's still so much more that needs to happen," he expresses. "I want to be the next Ralph Lauren or Calvin Klein. I'm just in the beginning stages."

As one surveys his atelier, it becomes clear that hope thrives in what he has accomplished thus far. A diverse group of queer, brown youth—emerging designers, creative talents, and future entrepreneurs—are diligently working to assist Chavarria in reshaping our cultural landscape through fashion. It is the realization of Chavarria's vision—a world he continues to build upon.