Santiago's Oldest Neighborhood Is Also Its Coolest. Here's What to See.

The approach into Santiago de Chile is nothing short of breathtaking, with aircraft descending in proximity to the majestic Andean peaks. While the exhilaration of this arrival, paired with striking mountain views (equally impressive at ground level), created a captivating first impression, my initial affinity for the Chilean capital took time to develop. After relocating from the United Kingdom to the coastal city of Viña del Mar during the latter phase of the Covid-19 pandemic, I began to explore Santiago through a series of weekend excursions. Throughout these visits, I ventured into the city's diverse neighborhoods and immersed myself in its historical sites.

Despite enjoying my walks up San Cristóbal and Santa Lucía hills, savoring the diverse food offerings, and engaging in exchanges of chilenismos (Chilean slang) with antique vendors in Barrio Italia, I found myself appreciating Santiago without feeling a strong connection. However, during my recent exploration of Barrio Yungay, my perspective shifted profoundly as I discovered a more intimate, artistic, and community-oriented essence of the city.

Exploring Barrio Yungay, Santiago's oldest neighborhood

Situated to the west of the historic city center, Yungay holds the distinction of being Santiago's inaugural republican neighborhood. Established in 1839 as a thoughtfully designed urban plan soon after Chile's independence, it carries the name of the Battle of Yungay, a significant victory against the Peru-Bolivian Confederation. The Roto Chileno bronze statue in Plaza Yungay serves as a tribute to those who defended Chile, enduring as a cultural emblem representing the everyday Chilean and their resilience.

Throughout the 19th century, affluent families and intellectuals began settling in Yungay. The architectural landscape is an eclectic mélange of Neoclassical, Art Nouveau, and Art Deco structures interspersed with colonial adobe homes. Among the most intriguing features are Yungay's remaining "cités" — narrow residential complexes that share a communal courtyard, serving as pedestrian passageways. The charming Pasaje Adriana Cousiño stands out with its Neoclassical and Belle Époque facades, adorned in cerulean blue and salmon pink. Visitors are encouraged to stroll through this passageway and enjoy tea while interacting with the resident cats at Tetería Cleopatra. It is noteworthy that many of these apartments continue to house long-term residents rather than short-term vacationers.

As the late 20th-century development of "Sanhattan" emerged in Santiago's modern eastern sector, Yungay experienced a decline in interest. While numerous buildings exhibit signs of wear, some have undergone restoration, and a bohemian atmosphere persists, infused with political discourse prominently expressed through the area's street art. Notably, Gabriel Boric, the former president of Chile, chose to reside on Huérfanos Street during his tenure in office.

Start by exploring Chile's Museum of Memory & Human Rights

Before delving fully into the neighborhood, I recommend visiting the Museum of Memory & Human Rights, located at the edge of Yungay. This poignant yet essential museum provides crucial insights into the repercussions of Augusto Pinochet's military dictatorship. Exhibits document the human rights abuses committed during the regime from 1973 to 1990, highlighting the experiences of victims and their families who endured the pain of lost loved ones. The museum offers audiobooks in various languages, and it is advisable to allocate two to three hours for a comprehensive visit.

After exiting the museum, taking a leisurely walk around Quinta Norma Park is an enjoyable option. The park is surrounded by several cultural landmarks, with the National Museum of Natural History being the most notable. Its galleries exhibit Chile's diverse ecosystems, flora, and fauna, along with paleontological discoveries. Most informational signs are in Spanish, and as there is no audioguide available, utilizing a translation app would enhance your experience at this free-admission museum.

Walk around Barrio Yungay's painted streets

Upon reaching the vibrant heart of Yungay, the true essence of the neighborhood unfolds on foot as you wander through its streets, admiring the captivating architecture and expressive street art adorning this colorful enclave. For those seeking deeper insights into the artistic installations, a guided tour can provide valuable context. Héctor, a knowledgeable and passionate guide, leads walking tours that recount the actions of local activists and artists. His expertise also introduced me to some of Yungay's best culinary gems.

Among the prominent murals is a depiction of Gabriela Mistral, the Nobel Prize-winning poet, alongside her reputed partner, the late activist Ana González de Recabarren, celebrated as a Yungay local. Another mural pays homage to the cacerolazo — a form of collective protest where citizens create noise from their balconies, a practice that originated in the 1970s and revived during the Estallido Social (Social Outburst) of 2019, which addressed economic inequality. A vivid mosaic memorializes Victor Jara, the folk singer and activist brutally silenced under Pinochet’s regime.

Additional murals highlight aspects of Chilean culture, including chinchineros, street musicians performing with instruments strapped to their backs. One particular house showcases flora, fauna, and myths rooted in the island of Chiloé in Chilean Patagonia, featuring recurring motifs from Chile's Indigenous Mapuche population.

Where to eat in Barrio Yungay

Though Lastarria is often hailed as the center of Santiago's culinary landscape, Barrio Yungay boasts a selection of unique establishments housed within heritage buildings. Peluquería Francesa can be accessed by traversing one of the oldest barbershops in the world. This parlor, established in 1868, is still operational, and a collection of vintage barbering tools is displayed in a museum directly across the street.

Peluquería Francesa offers a comforting à la carte menu featuring Chilean and French fusion dishes, along with daily specials that include two or three homestyle courses at reasonable prices. Breakfast and once (a light meal of sandwiches, pastries, and cake) are also served, catering to those seeking an alternative to dinner. The restaurant hosts live music several nights a week and boasts an array of charming vintage artifacts adorning its various floors, creating an inviting atmosphere for enjoying pisco sours and exquisite carménère wines — a place where one could easily linger until closing.

For a visually appealing yet equally satisfying lunch option, Espacio Gárgola occupies the first floor of a Victorian-era mansion, while the upper levels feature free art exhibits. The menu showcases traditional Chilean favorites, such as chorillanas (fries topped with caramelized onions, meat strips, and fried eggs) and locos mayonesa (Chilean abalone garnished with a beloved condiment). The kitchen also crafts delightful pizzas along with popular Peruvian dishes. Foreseeing my earlier reservation at Peluquería Francesa, I opted for a quick empanada de pino (a pastry filled with minced meat, onion, boiled egg, and an olive — do watch out for the pit) enjoyed in the cozy internal courtyard.

For the adventurous eater, Fuente Mardoqueo offers the challenge of tackling a substantial Chilean sandwich; arriving early is advisable, as the establishment typically fills with local workers during lunchtime. This nostalgic eatery exudes a German beer hall ambiance and specializes in hearty meat sandwiches, allowing guests to choose either lomito (thinly sliced, slow-braised pork loin) or churrasco (strips of beefsteak), loaded with a selection of greens. The classic option is the completo, akin to the Chilean hot dog, topped with avocado, diced tomato, and mayonnaise. I recommend pairing it with an Austral Calafate, a Patagonian beer infused with calafate berries for a unique taste experience.