Montevideo, Birthplace of the World Cup, is Still the Most Underrated Soccer City

This story is the first in a series celebrating soccer cultures around the world—and the communities shaped by them.

On July 18, 1930, Juan Antonio Scasso, then a 38-year-old public works director, was at the Estadio Centenario, dealing with the last-minute preparations as his team dried the floors using braziers. FIFA had granted him less than a year to complete the stadium, which he agreed to do without compensation beyond his municipal salary, committing to finish on time.

Ultimately, he was late by just five days.

While the concrete was setting, the initial eight matches of the inaugural World Cup were moved to alternate venues in Pocitos and Gran Parque Central, home of Montevideo's rival football clubs, Peñarol and Nacional, who had been engaged in rivalry since their first match in July 1900. Fortunately, the Centenario was ready in time to host both the inaugural semifinals and the FIFA finals, culminating in an emotional 4-2 victory for Uruguay over Argentina.

Uruguay had already established itself as a dominant football nation, having won Olympic gold medals in Paris in 1924 and Amsterdam in 1928. By 1929, FIFA was 25 years old yet had not yet hosted a tournament; it was Uruguay's offer to fly and accommodate each participating team that resolved this issue.

As a small but proud nation, Uruguay often finds itself in the shadow of its more prominent neighbors, Argentina and Brazil. Nevertheless, it holds a vital place in World Cup history, with a football culture that is incredibly passionate. With a population of 3.5 million, Uruguay has achieved two World Cup victories and 15 Copa América titles. Furthermore, Montevideo hosts 13 of the national league's 16 first-division clubs, while Buenos Aires, which is almost ten times larger, boasts only five. In everyday life, football frequently draws students away from their classrooms; when the national team plays, the rest of the nation follows suit, leading to empty offices, closed banks, and diminishing lines at the local panadería by halftime. This unwavering devotion to soccer predates the tournament itself.

As Uruguay prepares for the 2026 FIFA World Cup, where they are grouped with Spain, Cape Verde, and Saudi Arabia in Group H, it prompts an inquiry into how a nation of this size has consistently outperformed expectations for a century.

The Spirit of Garra Charrúa

Most observers would agree that it begins with the concept of garra charrúa, or "The Claw of the Charrúa." There is no precise English equivalent for this term—"grit" comes close, but lacks its inherent intensity. The Charrúa were the Indigenous people inhabiting the Banda Oriental, a resilient community that faced near extermination during the Massacre of Salsipuedes in 1831. Since then, this determination has become emblematic of the Uruguayan national identity.

"We're like the scrappy flea going up against two giants," says Daniel Baldi, a former midfielder for Peñarol and Danubio, now an author and head of Fundación Celeste, referring to Argentina and Brazil. "It's about rebelling in the face of adversity. It's what you feel when no one bets on you, yet you still aim to compete."

Despite the high stakes involved, game days in Uruguay maintain a sense of fun. Fans come prepared with their complete maté setups—thermos in one hand, a drinking gourd and bombilla straw in the other—to share among strangers, signaling camaraderie across rival jerseys without uttering a word. Street barbecues often spring up between parked cars, with locals offering choripán—grilled chorizo housed in crusty bread with chimichurri—while others savor churros nearby. Inside the stadium, interactions oscillate between enthusiastic singing and playful insults, with opposing stands engaging in spirited exchanges.

For those not attending in person, the collective experience continues at home, where uncles debate team lineups and dedicated grill masters handle the asado. Meanwhile, sisters-in-law may be sharing maté in the kitchen, cousins engage across rooms, and grandfathers might be intently focused on a Peñarol match they’ve followed for 45 years.

The Origin Story: The Potrero

The enthusiasm for soccer extends far beyond just the key matches. "Baby fútbol," as it is affectionately called, refers to the organized youth leagues that connect every Montevideo neighborhood. Children aged 6 to 13 participate, donning authentic uniforms and competing under the watchful eyes of real referees.

"We develop a passion and a desire to win from a young age,” Matías Jones states. “Sometimes it can detract from the enjoyment of the game, but it undeniably makes us unique."

Jones currently plays professionally in the Netherlands, an appealing option for many Uruguayans seeking better contracts and stability. However, he misses the proximity of Estadio Centenario, the only stadium worldwide designated by FIFA as a Historical Monument of World Football. "Some things cannot be replicated," he notes, continuing to follow Montevideo matches from thousands of miles away.

Baldi speaks of the potrero, which translates to "paddock," referring to the enclosed space where animals are kept. In Rioplatense Spanish, the term embodies various makeshift playing fields—abandoned lots, cracked dirt patches, or wide sidewalks. Although such locales have become less common in urban Montevideo, Baldi recalls a time when playing fields occupied the streets, causing traffic to halt so kids could finish their plays. In Uruguay’s smaller towns and rural areas, these traditions persist and serve as the foundation for most of the nation's renowned talento—a testament to how a country of Uruguay's size continually births world-class athletes year after year.

Baldi regularly visits less affluent neighborhoods in Montevideo, addressing groups of children as part of his initiative, Fundación Celeste. Since its inception in 2019, the organization has focused on children who possess minimal opportunities, launching football schools, supporting educational programs in over 40 public primary schools, and forming partnerships with Uruguayan football stars to merge athletics with academic experiences for 5,000 children on an online mathematics platform.

While few of the children Baldi interacts with will pursue careers as professional athletes, he emphasizes that they all have the potential to lead meaningful lives beyond football while nurturing their appreciation for the sport. "Football serves purposes far more significant than itself," he quotes national coach Óscar Washington Tabárez, emphasizing the multifaceted role of sport in personal development.

Soccer as a Lens to Understanding Montevideo

For those exploring Uruguay, soccer provides a lens that enriches understanding of the culture. Lara Droogleever Fortuyn, a Dutch political scientist and journalist who relocated to Montevideo in 2014, quickly realized that football served as an effective social connector. After spending her first year learning the city's history, she found that discussions around football served as a seamless icebreaker.

Droogleever Fortuyn recounts attending a dinner party where a Peñarol supporter and a Nacional supporter playfully teased each other about the ongoing Clásico rivalry that spans over 125 years. "Football is a means of national expression," she explains. Her son played for Montevideo City Torque, one of the first-division clubs, from ages 8 to 12. "Every time he felt he was among the best, a new player would appear," she recalls, observing that the competition in this sport is relentless.

In her tours, Droogleever Fortuyn intertwines soccer into her narratives, as it would be impossible to capture the essence of Montevideo without its influence. She guides guests along the Rambla, Montevideo's coastal promenade, where children engage in impromptu matches on the beach, in plazas, and even on dirt paths squeezed between highways that many would consider unusable—the very essence of the potrero. Should visitors be in town on game day, she highly recommends attending a match at the stadium: "You go for the atmosphere, the singing, the passion. Even if you’re not a fan of soccer, it’s the best way to understand what it means to be Uruguayan."

How to Watch the 2026 World Cup in Uruguay

Uruguay's group-stage matches during the World Cup will be held in Miami and Guadalajara in June 2026, yet many believe that the atmosphere in Montevideo will surpass anything experienced in the northern venues. A longtime tradition, regarded as essential during recent World Cups in 2014, 2018, and 2022, is the giant screen set up on the façade of the Intendencia de Montevideo on Avenida 18 de Julio, transforming the esplanade into an open-air stadium for every La Celeste match. The Intendencia usually confirms the setup approximately two weeks before the tournament commences. Post-match, an asado is an essential part of the experience.

For those seeking English-language support while on the ground, Droogleever Fortuyn's Touruguay creates personalized football itineraries that highlight cultural contexts surrounding the matches—including city walks, neighborhood clubs, and asado experiences afterward. Alternatively, Fanáticos Fútbol Tours, managed by both Peñarol and Nacional enthusiasts, offers football-focused options for attending a Clásico, midweek Libertadores matches, or even stadium and museum tours on non-game days. With demand around the Cup already soaring, it's advisable to secure bookings promptly if planning to be in Montevideo.