Matador Network
From its establishment in 1943 until the conclusion of World War II, the town of Los Alamos, New Mexico was officially unrecognized. The U.S. government relocated over 6,000 scientists, engineers, technicians, and military personnel to this mountainous region of New Mexico, creating a clandestine military base and laboratory. Constructed in just a few weeks, Los Alamos was exclusively inhabited by individuals connected to its classified mission: the Manhattan Project, which focused on the development and testing of the nuclear weapons ultimately deployed on Hiroshima and Nagasaki in August 1945. The residents of this secret city did not appear on census records, their correspondence was routed to a remote post office box, and to the outside world, they effectively did not exist.
In 1957, the gates of Los Alamos were opened, allowing anyone to drive in and explore the small downtown area. However, the perimeter fence surrounding the Los Alamos National Laboratory, a secure federal facility at the heart of the community, remains intact. This site still contains many original structures from the Manhattan Project, yet access is generally restricted. Twice a year, a competitive lottery enables a select few the opportunity to tour the facility, with the next lottery set to open on June 1.
What is Los Alamos?
In April 1943, the United States government created a covert laboratory in the mountains of northern New Mexico, referred to internally as "Project Y." Under the leadership of Robert Oppenheimer, scientists were tasked with a crucial objective: to construct an atomic bomb before Nazi Germany could achieve the same. This monumental effort culminated in the "Trinity test" on July 16, 1945—a significant moment in history as it marked the first detonation of a nuclear weapon anywhere in the world. Less than a month afterward, the U.S. dropped the bombs created at this laboratory on Hiroshima and Nagasaki, leading to the conclusion of World War II.
The bombings resulted in an estimated 130,000 to 200,000 deaths, predominantly among civilians, and the ethical implications of this decision continue to spark debates to this day. The exhibits in the public visitor center address these issues head-on while maintaining a neutral stance.
Following World War II, the laboratory remained operational, continuing its work throughout the Cold War and contributing to the development of the hydrogen bomb. It remains active in the present day. The site’s stringent security measures have fostered a culture of conspiracy theories, with rumors surrounding espionage, the mystery of missing hard drives containing nuclear data, and speculations regarding the unexplained deaths and disappearances of affiliated scientists. The buildings, largely unchanged from their original 1940s condition, remain behind the security fence, and gaining access through a tour is the closest opportunity most individuals will have.
What visitors will see
Established in 2015, the Manhattan Project National Historical Park includes Los Alamos as one of its three sites, alongside Oak Ridge, Tennessee, and Hanford, Washington. Each location highlights a distinct facet of the bomb's development, with Los Alamos serving as the core site where the weapons were designed, built, and tested.
Unlike many national park sites, most historic structures within the park are situated on secured land and are not open to casual visitors. Behind-the-scenes tours are the only means of accessing this facility and allow participants to view crucial locations where Manhattan Project scientists made history. Notable highlights include the original Pond Cabin, where physicists determined that their initial "Thin Man" plutonium bomb design was unviable, and the Slotin Building, named after scientist Louis Slotin, who succumbed to radiation exposure shortly after an incident there. Additionally, guides provide insights into daily life in a town that shouldn't have existed and the experiences of employees who could not disclose their whereabouts to family.
While access to the town is unrestricted, the visitor center offers guided walking tours lasting 90 minutes of the original project site, which is home to a small museum and a statue of Oppenheimer. The nearby Bradbury Science Museum, named after Oppenheimer’s successor Norris Bradbury (not the famed science fiction author Ray Bradbury), features interactive exhibits focused on nuclear science and the enduring legacy of the Manhattan Project.
How to get a spot
Tours occur on select dates a few times each year, with two tours daily accommodating a maximum of 30 participants per tour. The upcoming lottery, opening on June 1, will include tours scheduled for October 13, 14, and 15, limiting the total number of tour participants to 180. Tours are typically held in May and October, but securing a spot remains highly competitive.
The lottery registration opens on June 1 and closes on June 12, with winners notified by June 18. Participation in the free tours is available exclusively online, and each entry allows for the inclusion of one guest. Previous entries do not roll over, necessitating fresh submissions for each lottery opportunity. Due to the facility's high-security protocols, winners must provide extensive identification upon check-in, and understandably, cell phones and cameras are prohibited.
Getting there
Los Alamos is situated approximately 35 miles northwest of Santa Fe, New Mexico, making it a suitable destination for a day trip. The drive, which takes less than an hour, navigates through scenic, undeveloped canyon landscapes. For those considering an extended visit, accommodations in Santa Fe offer access to attractions such as the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum and the historic Plaza, alongside the city's renowned culinary scene. Additionally, Bandelier National Monument, known for its ancient cave dwellings, ruins, and petroglyphs left by the Ancestral Pueblo peoples, is nearby.
Share this story