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Chilean Food Culture: The Comfort Foods, Customs, and Cocktails Travelers Should Know
Upon relocating from England to Chile four years ago, my thoughts were primarily focused on the stunning mountains surrounding me, yet I was uncertain about what culinary experiences awaited at the dinner table. Although renowned for asado meat, Chile has not traditionally been regarded as a prominent gastronomic destination—some might even liken its cuisine to that of Great Britain, given perceptions of blandness. Interestingly, despite its chili-like geographic shape and a name that translates to "where the land ends," the most commonly used condiments in Chile are salt and mayonnaise.
Through my exploration of the Chilean food landscape, I have come to appreciate the simplicity inherent in many traditional dishes. The preparation is typically uncomplicated, showcasing the natural flavors of the ingredients. The most delightful dishes often consist of homestyle combinations of meats, fish, and beans—referred to in Chile as porotos rather than frijoles—served alongside an array of potatoes (a fun fact: most varieties originate from the island of Chiloé) and fresh, seasonal vegetables. I have also found a surprising familiarity in Chilean cuisine, with many dishes reminiscent of my experiences in England. However, let's begin with the cornerstone of the Chilean diet: bread.
Pan y mayo: the "bread and butter" of Chile
Bread holds significant cultural and economic importance in Chile, with the country ranking second only to Germany in terms of total bread consumption. Several specific types of bread are notable in bakeries and restaurants. Pan marraqueta is characterized by a crisp exterior and fluffy interior, often used as a vessel for choripanes (grilled sausages) or to encase Chile's substantial sandwiches, akin to the "doorstop" sandwiches in Britain. Pan amasado is a more rustic bread, traditionally baked in wood-fired ovens, suitable for various contexts, but commonly enjoyed as an appetizer topped with pebre, a mildly spicy tomato-based salsa. Pan hallulla features a round shape and a slightly denser texture, frequently used for ham and cheese sandwiches but also enjoyed with pebre, avocado, and manjar (a type of dulce de leche).
Given that Chilean bread tends to harden quickly, it is best consumed on the day of purchase; otherwise, it can be utilized in casseroles and stews in place of potatoes. The abundance of bread likely accounts for the widespread preference for mayonnaise in Chilean cuisine, as it is typically included in sandwiches by default. The popular hot dog variation known as completos is most commonly ordered as a completo italiano, featuring a sausage topped with diced tomatoes, mashed avocado, and a generous portion of mayonnaise, resembling the colors of the Italian flag. The term "italiano" also applies to another type of sandwich, usually filled with lomo (thinly sliced tenderloin) or carne mechada (slow-cooked beef). While a touch of mayo enhances many bread-based dishes, it is advisable to learn the phrase "sin mayo" (without mayo) for those who prefer to enjoy their sandwiches without it.
Chile's teatime meal tradition
A startling aspect of Chilean dining culture is the emphasis on lunch, often at the expense of a substantial dinner. Many Chileans favor a large, late lunch as their primary meal, relying on a lighter evening meal known as once (pronounced "on-say"). Initially, I found this custom reminiscent of England's afternoon tea, as both share a ritualistic nature, commonly enjoyed in the company of family and friends. A traditional Chilean once typically features crustless sándwiches de miga or toasted bread topped with smashed avocado or huevos revueltos (scrambled eggs). This meal is accompanied by tea—though many Chileans prefer tea over coffee, making Chile the largest consumer of tea in Latin America. For special occasions, cake is a popular addition, alongside folded flatbreads known as dobladitas, served with manjar.
In Chile, many locally-focused restaurants operate exclusively during lunch hours, although options remain available for those desiring dinner. Numerous establishments offer fixed-price once menus, pairing a bread-based main dish with tea and cake, ideal for those taking a break from afternoon sightseeing.
Dishes full of fishes, and finding "home" in food
As I became more familiar with classic Chilean cuisine—making concessions to my vegetarian preferences for backyard asados with family—I began to explore other culinary offerings that reminded me of "home." While the flavors and ingredients differ, Chile's pastel de choclo (a dish of ground beef baked with crushed corn, onions, and a hard-boiled egg) evokes a similar comforting experience to shepherd's or cottage pie commonly found in the UK. I find a comparable sense of nostalgia in savoring a steaming bowl of pastel de jaiba, arguably my favorite dish, where crabmeat is baked in milk-soaked bread infused with onions and garlic, and topped with parmesan. Enjoying this dish during a misty day in Valparaíso evokes memories of indulging in an English fish pie at a coastal pub along the rugged northeast coast. Similarly, chupe (a creamy, soupy fish-based stew) bears resemblance to the chowder found along the British East Coast.
Overall, Chile's seafood offerings are exceptional, making it a joyous destination for pescatarians. As a Brit, I have experienced my share of pescado frito con papas (fried white fish, usually of the reineta or merluza variety, served with French fries). For lighter fare, there is machas a la parmesana (baked clams with parmesan cheese), and locos con mayonesa is a sought-after appetizer, featuring Chilean abalone topped with the ubiquitous mayo.
While some Chilean dishes may risk being labeled as bland, they are consistently comforting and satisfying—particularly on brisk autumn evenings along the coast or following a trek through the breathtaking valleys of Patagonia. Those who appreciate a bolder flavor can request a jar of merkén, a spice made from smoked chili peppers originating from Chile's Mapuche people, which provides a delightful kick to a dish or even enhances a beer.
What to drink in Chile
In addition to wine, one of the most popular beverages in Chile is piscola (a pisco spirit mixed with Coca-Cola or ginger ale), known colloquially as carrete in local slang. It is important to note that alcohol measurements in Chile are typically generous: bartenders often fill half a glass with liquor, and just one piscola or pisco sour can leave many visitors feeling light-headed.
Among the cocktails associated with Chile is the terremoto, composed of sweet Pipeño wine, grenadine, and pineapple ice cream, which appears on menus leading up to National Day on September 18. Aptly named "earthquake," one glass of this concoction can have a significant impact. Additionally, cola de mono ("monkey's tail") functions as a traditional Christmas cocktail, frequently compared to Baileys. While there are various recipes, the typical blend includes aguardiente, condensed milk, instant coffee, cinnamon, and cloves. After preparation, this drink is refrigerated and served cold.
Chile is often underappreciated as a beer destination, boasting unexpected similarities to Europe’s leading beer-producing countries. German immigrants introduced brewing techniques, discovering that southern Chile's cold climate and glacial waters were conducive to producing quality beers. Valdivia serves as the heart of this production, with brewery tours and tastings available at the cozy Kunstmann tavern. In addition, Australis offers calfate-infused ales from the world's southernmost brewery, which can be found in restaurants throughout Chile. D'Olbek brews its beers using Belgian techniques, incorporating local ingredients such as the native maqui berry. Be sure to try Guayacán's refreshing lagers flavored with papaya from the arid north of Chile, and don't miss tasting a Chilean michelada, which features merkén spice along the rim of the glass.
Be sure to explore market aisles for lesser-known craft brands. However, as public consumption of alcohol is prohibited in parks and beaches, save your post-hike salud for the comfort of your accommodation.
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