Walking Japan’s Kumano Kodo Trail in Search of an Ancient Form of Wellness
The landscape of wellness is ever-evolving, featuring trends like red light therapy, cold plunges, and biohacking. With each emergence of new products and practices, there is often an underlying promise of improvement and healing.
However, the approach to wellness on Japan’s Kii Peninsula is rooted in a legacy of tranquility, embracing nature and ancient customs that have persisted for over a millennium.
During my week-long exploration of the Kii Peninsula, a subtropical region comparable in size to The Big Island of Hawai'i, I sought holistic wellness to rejuvenate my entire being. Foregoing the typical tourist hotspots of Kyoto, Osaka, and Tokyo, I embarked on parts of an age-old pilgrimage beneath majestic trees, engaged with Buddhist monks in secluded temples, participated in a fire ritual to burn prayers, immersed myself in onsens, and received energy treatments from a holistic practitioner.
As I traversed the Kumano Kodo trail, I encountered a profound journey of peace and spirituality. A concept that resonated with me during my travels was the Japanese expression “borrowing scenery.” This idea reflects that when one observes a beautiful landscape, ownership is relinquished; the view is a shared marvel belonging to all and to nature itself.
In Japan, the essence of rebirth entails letting go of mental burdens, embracing stillness, and being fully present in the natural world. Here, wellness speaks softly, inviting seekers into a quiet space where they can discover serenity amidst divine mountains.
Rebirth along the Kumano Kodo Trail
The serene paths, along with moss-coated stone steps, meander through the hillside above the Hongu shrine area in Tanabe City, Wakayama Prefecture. These trails are adorned with vast ferns and towering hinoki cypress trees, with dust motes dancing in the shimmering beams of light filtering through ancient Japanese cedars that grace the Nachisan slopes.
In the seamless rhythm between breath and stride, wandering the sacred Kumano trail revealed an uplifting lightness of spirit.
Historically significant during the Heian period (794–1185), the Kumano region emerged as a vital pilgrimage site in Japan. By the 11th century, this sacred landscape attracted emperors and nobility from Kyoto, who sought purification, renewal, and rebirth on these forested pathways. Local folklore tells of deities such as Hirō Gongen, the guardian of Nachi Waterfall, and Yama-no-Kami, the spirit of the mountains, who reside in the terrain, waterfalls, trees, and rivers.
Today, the Kumano Kodo consists of an intricate network of trails, extending approximately 620 miles. This extensive system links over 100 historic shrines, temples, and revered sites across the Kii Peninsula. In 2004, the Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range were recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to their cultural and spiritual importance.
Ise Jingu and the Concept of Renewal
Ise Jingu, the customary starting point of the Kumano Kodo trail in Mie Prefecture, stands as one of Japan’s most esteemed Shinto shrines, housing the ancestral deity of the imperial family.
Upon arrival, I bowed beneath the torii gate, a symbolic threshold between the physical and spiritual realms, and crossed Ujibashi Bridge. At the Isuzugawa River's edge, I performed a cleansing ritual, washing my hands as a preparatory act before entering the sacred space of the inner shrine. The simplicity of worship at a Shinto shrine manifests through straightforward gestures: bowing twice, clapping twice, and bowing once more.
Photography, food, and drink are prohibited here; this sanctuary is not merely a tourist attraction. Millions visit annually to pay homage to Amaterasu-Omikami, the sun goddess, and Toyouke-no-Okami, the deity of agriculture.
The shrine undergoes a meticulous reconstruction every 20 years, adhering to the ancient practice of Shikinen Sengu, established over 1,300 years ago. This ritual involves disassembling and reassembling the entire structure in a different location, thus reflecting the essence of renewal. In this manner, the shrine perpetually embodies youth through its cycle of rebirth.
Kimi Kuribayashi, my nationally-licensed tour guide and translator, articulated that Japanese culture emphasizes cooperation, quietude, and harmony. Wandering the shrine grounds, I began to comprehend the deep-seated respect afforded to ritual, nature, and shared spaces.
Kumano Hongu Taisha: Walking toward rebirth
Accompanied by a small group, I had the opportunity to meet Ietaka Kuki, the Chief Priest (or Gūji) of the Kumano Hongu Taisha shrine, to delve into the motivation behind visitors’ journeys here. Through our translator, we inquired about the feelings he hopes visitors experience upon arrival. “Peace,” he responded, elucidating that the UNESCO designation serves to connect humanity with this “road of peace,” a space where individuals from all walks of life and beliefs can come together to find solace.
Kuki-guji graciously invited us to enter the sacred gates and pray—an opportunity typically reserved for government officials and esteemed monks. We presented prayers to the three principal deities: Izanagi (father), Izanami (mother), and their significant progeny Susano’o (fire god/son). He encouraged us to attune ourselves to the gentle promptings of the deities we invoked as we sat in collective silence.
The optimal method to engage with Kumano lies in ambulating slowly beneath the trees, allowing time for contemplation rather than hastily moving between shrines. The intention is to clear the mind of mental distractions with each step taken. A millennium after Kyoto’s elite adopted this trail as a pilgrimage path, its significance remains unchanged.
Nachi and Seiganto-ji Temple: A release of fire and cleansing water
Standing before Nachi Waterfall, an awe-inspiring sight that sent chills down my spine, I felt droplets mist my face. Venerated for centuries for its healing properties, the waterfall exuded an aura akin to that of a deity. A profound shift filled the air, causing goosebumps to rise even in the sweltering heat. Was this a spiritual awakening, or merely yūgen, that ineffable appreciation one feels when confronted with nature's breathtaking beauty?
Adjacent to Nachi Waterfall lies the Seiganto-ji Temple, marked by a striking red pagoda. Conversations with Chiei Takagi, Deputy Head Priest at the temple, unveiled the simplicity behind its purpose: “Assimilate with nature. Feel the assimilation yourself. You are part of nature.”
He recounted tales of a mountain ascetic who once resided in these mountains, receiving healing powers that he imparted to others. This sacred space, he expressed, fosters a sharing of energy among visitors.
In contrast to the waterfall, Shugendō practitioners known as yamabushi chanted within the Nachisan Gyōjadō Hall, offering cedar branches upon an altar. As smoke billowed and swirled in the room, they prepared for a Goma fire ritual, a time-honored Buddhist practice passed down through generations of mountain monks.
We were each provided with a gomagi, a wooden prayer stick meant specifically for this ceremony. Individuals penned wishes or prayers for the world on these sticks. One by one, each prayer stick was placed into the flames, as smoke ascended into the rafters, carrying our offerings upward toward the mountain deities: fire symbolizing release, followed by a trek to Nachi for water symbolizing cleansing.
The end of our journey: Nara, the birthplace of Japan
Many who know of Nara recognize it primarily for the Sika deer that wander freely throughout the parks. However, Nara also boasts some of the oldest temples and shrines in Japan, including Todai-ji, renowned for enshrining a colossal Buddha statue and embodying the profound interconnections between nature, spirituality, and history in this ancient land.
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