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March can be a challenging month in Saint-Tropez. While many envision this Riviera village as a continuous playground for the affluent, the lasting image of Bardot-era glamour diverges significantly from the daily reality faced by its approximately 4,000 permanent residents.
Having resided on the Côte d’Azur for many years, I have come to appreciate the quieter ambiance of Saint-Tropez during the off-season. On this particular day, the sunlight is subdued, the sky has a milky tone, and a winter chill persists in the air. The streets are nearly deserted, with many boutiques closed for business. A brisk wind sweeps over the harbor, which is currently devoid of yachts.
At the Place des Lices, there are no pétanque players in sight. A gentleman with gray hair rides by on an old bicycle. A few designer boutiques have their lights on; outside one shop, a seemingly indifferent shopkeeper takes a smoke break while awaiting customers.
This is the quieter side of Saint-Tropez, typically unseen by visitors—the calm before the filming crews arrive. In April, HBO’s highly anticipated series The White Lotus will commence filming its fourth season here, adding a fresh layer to the region's long-standing tradition of mischief and indulgent pleasures.
Local tourism officials report that reservations for the upcoming spring are already promising along the Côte d’Azur, although the details surrounding the production remain confidential, making it difficult to ascertain whether this is a direct result of the show’s impending arrival. “People aren’t exclaiming oh là là about it—at least not yet,” notes one staff member.
If the success of the show’s previous seasons serves as a benchmark, Saint-Tropez could soon be inundated with set-jetters. “After the second season of The White Lotus aired—set at the Four Seasons San Domenico Palace in Taormina, Sicily—the response was immediate,” explains Pierre-Alexandre Francin, a private travel designer with First in Service and a former resident of Saint-Tropez. “The hotel received approximately 3,000 booking requests within just a week following the first episode's release.”
“The third season similarly propelled interest in Thailand beyond just the featured property,” he continues. “Travelers wanted to see the destinations for themselves.”
Currently, preparations are discreetly underway behind the scenes. Local sources indicate that production teams have started to scout for accommodations for cast and crew while arranging luxury vehicles and other logistical needs around Saint-Tropez.
At Nice’s Victorine Studios, a casting call for extras for an unnamed “American series,” as reported by Nice-Matin, attracted a lengthy line of Gen-Z hopefuls, many of whom seemed unaware of the specifics of the project for which they were auditioning.
As I explore the narrow alleyways of the village, I visit Rondini—the sandal shop renowned for crafting leather Tropéziennes since 1927. Alain Rondini, the owner, admits he has yet to hear of the show and seems somewhat amused by the notion that a television series might bring about such transformation to the town.
He invites me upstairs to the workshop—previously his grandparents’ home—where the scent of freshly cut leather permeates the space. “Next year, the shop will celebrate its hundredth anniversary,” he says with a smile. “I’m the third generation, and my daughter Anaïs will be the fourth.”
“In the summer, the area is already crowded. Saint-Tropez is a small village—there comes a point where we simply cannot accommodate more,” Rondini remarks. Anaïs adds, “If it encourages visitors in the low season, that could be beneficial.”
This sentiment is echoed in numerous conversations around the village. Viviane, owner of the high-end boutique Blabla, which has offered Ibiza-inspired fashion and accessories for 45 years, expresses a greater interest in the curiosity that follows media exposure rather than the filming itself.
She recalls the fervor surrounding the reality show Loft Story that was filmed in the area years ago: “People lined up outside the house just to see it.” She pauses, shaking her head. “If The White Lotus draws visitors in April, May, or June, that’s one thing. In July and August, it would be overwhelming.”
On the serene Place des Ormes, a peaceful square among the village’s backstreets, Walter Wolkowicz, who operates the marine antiques shop La Vieille Mer, acknowledges the positive aspects. “Any event that brings attention to the town can only be a good thing,” he remarks with a chuckle. “As a shopkeeper, a few more visitors certainly doesn’t concern me.”
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