I re-visited one of England's most spectacular hikes after a £5.5m upgrade

The Coast to Coast walk, which is now an officially recognized National Trail, commences at St Bees beach in Cumbria and culminates at Robin Hood's Bay in North Yorkshire.

Traditionally, hikers begin the Coast to Coast walk by dipping their boots into the sea adjacent to the village of St Bees. This location, situated on the Irish Sea coast in West Cumbria, marks the beginning of an extensive journey to the North Sea, traversing a challenging 190 miles (305 km) across three National Parks.

Doug Sim, chair of St Bees Parish Council, highlights the appeal of the Coast to Coast walk, stating, "It's got culture, it's got historical interest and it's got challenge, but it isn't too challenging." He notes that the clear start and finish points at the beaches add a sense of completeness to the experience.

The route has recently been designated as England's newest National Trail, following a substantial £5.5 million investment aimed at enhancing path surfacing, signage, and overall accessibility.

The trail was conceptualized and first walked by the renowned fell-walker Alfred Wainwright over 50 years ago. Wainwright believed that the existing Pennine Way—a 268-mile (429 km) trail stretching from the Peak District to the Scottish Borders—was too extensive for many, requiring up to three weeks to complete. He envisioned a more manageable, yet still demanding 14-day trek.

Wainwright's guidebook to the Coast to Coast, published in the early 1970s and featuring his own handwriting and illustrations, remains a celebrated literary accomplishment.

I embarked on this hike in 1991, armed with Wainwright's guide, under beautiful weather conditions.

The initial days of the trail through the Lake District present the most strenuous portions, characterized by numerous ascents and descents across mountain ridges and secluded valleys. Reaching the village of Shap signifies the completion of the most physically demanding sections.

In the intervening years, extensive legal efforts by local authorities and the National Parks have formalized the path as an official right of way. As a result, it is now also more effectively marked, with the letters "aw" etched onto each way-marker, paying homage to its original creator. In essence, the trail largely embodies Wainwright's vision.

For most walkers, day two typically involves heading eastward up Ennerdale in the Lake District. This area highlights many recent improvements, including the addition of new gates and bridges that enhance accessibility. While it remains impossible for wheelchair users to navigate the entire trail, significant portions have become more achievable. Annie Wallen, a local resident, articulates her joy, stating, "Wainwright might have walked in boots but I roll on rubber. I love it." She finds being able to experience any segment of this trail to be "really special."

As the path ascends above the valley, it traverses elevated terrain, portions of which have been outfitted with large flagstones to mitigate erosion caused by years of foot traffic. Jo Willmott, a project ranger involved in the trail's refurbishment, notes the diverse international presence, with visitors from places like the US and Canada. "It's showing the best of the UK," she remarks.

Following the Lake District, the trail veers into Yorkshire Dales National Park. The route stretches from Kirkby Stephen, navigating over hills into Swaledale, passing remnants of abandoned lead mines—recently featured in Wuthering Heights—and continuing through lush pastures toward Reeth and Richmond.

Mark Reid, a seasoned walker who has traversed the Coast to Coast nine times, claims this area as his favorite segment. He guides groups along the trail from start to finish. During our conversation on the village green in Reeth, he mentions that after two weeks of walking, “you've got a group of friends,” and many visitors choose to return. "You reach the North Sea and it's really emotional; there are people in tears. It's really quite a fantastic experience."

The motivation behind the £5.5 million enhancement is partly attributed to the trail’s repeated popularity among visitors, viewed as a long-term investment that promises a substantial return from tourist spending.

From the Dales, the Coast to Coast trail proceeds into North York Moors National Park. In late summer, the path aligns with blooming purple heather, directing hikers through the iconic Lion Inn pub at Blakey Ridge, across wooded gorges, and past steam trains in Grosmont, ultimately reaching the journey's conclusion at Robin Hood's Bay. This location epitomizes a picturesque finale, featuring a tranquil, steep lane that descends through quaint fishermen's cottages adorned with orange pantile roofs, leading to a waterside hotel and the sea—or rock pools during low tide. Here, visitors can dip their boots in the water one last time, reflecting on the memories created during a remarkable journey.