On Costa Rica's Pacific Coast, These 2 Stays Take You From Fjord to Forest

The picturesque landscape of Golfo Dulce in southern Costa Rica features forested hills that rise dramatically from its shores. The sunlight illuminates the large, distinctive leaves of the Cecropia trees, while vibrant ginger flowers add a splash of red against the shaded understory.

As we navigate the water, our boat gently rises and falls with the low swell of the Pacific Ocean. The captain reduces the engine speed to a crawl, and the mechanical noise fades away. Suddenly, a swift exhalation echoes as a bottlenose dolphin surfaces, taking a breath.

Three… seven… a dozen silhouettes emerge, fins cutting through the morning light. Some dolphins swim in close proximity to our boat, allowing me to discern the light gray brushstrokes on their sleek bodies.

Welcome to Golfo Dulce: the Sweet Gulf.

A tropical fjord on Costa Rica's southern Pacific

Golfo Dulce is recognized as one of only four tropical fjord-like gulfs globally, spanning approximately 30 miles along Costa Rica's southern Pacific coast. Unlike the fjords of Norway, which were sculpted by ice, Golfo Dulce's formation is attributed to tectonic activity, and it is bordered by primary rainforest. This combination has created a nutrient-rich and protected body of water that serves as a significant nursery for cetaceans worldwide.

Affectionately referred to as la cuna del Pacífico — the cradle of the Pacific — this area is home to at least a dozen documented species, including resident bottlenose dolphins that favor the shallower areas near river mouths, while spotted dolphins inhabit the deeper waters. Additionally, the gulf hosts annual migratory visits by whales.

Golfo Dulce is one of the few locations visited by humpback whales from both hemispheres. The southern segment, journeying approximately 5,000 miles from feeding grounds in Antarctica, arrives in Costa Rica between July and November. Meanwhile, the northern population, migrating south from the Pacific shores of North America, appears between December and April.

Golfito, a quaint port town situated on the gulf’s northeastern edge, serves as a prime observation point for whale migration. Founded in 1938 to accommodate the United Fruit Company, Golfito became a central hub for banana exports for nearly fifty years. Its architecture showcases remnants of that historical influence, including a hospital, a school, and traces of old railroads. After the company's departure in the 1980s, amid labor disputes and increased export taxes, the town underwent substantial transformation. Bananas have been supplanted by palm oil and sport fishing, while Golfo Dulce — with its remarkable biodiversity both on land and in the sea — is gradually re-emerging as the defining characteristic of the region.

Marina Bahía Golfito exemplifies this evolution, featuring a marina complex with berths for superyachts, a public boardwalk, and various restaurants and shops. Central to this development is Amaka Ocean Living Lodge, a boutique hotel located at the bay's edge. Culinary experiences here are served in an open-air setting above the water, offering a unique perspective as pelicans linger on the dock below. The hotel’s proximity to the marina ensures that guests can embark on dolphin tours, sport-fishing charters, and national park excursions within mere steps of their accommodations.

Hiking Piedras Blancas National Park among more than 300 bird species

While our first day showcased the aquatic wonders of the region, our second day ascends into the treetops. A short drive from Golfito leads us to Piedras Blancas National Park, encompassing over 34,600 acres of rainforest within the Osa Conservation Area. Increasingly recognized by researchers as one of the globe's most biodiverse areas, the park shelters more than 300 species of birds, a diverse array of mammals including ocelots and jaguars, along with countless plant species.

Accompanied by a local naturalist, we navigate through the lush vegetation, scanning the canopy and reveling in the interconnected web of life it encompasses. Notable sights include a strangler fig tree, its branches occupied by colonies of bromeliads and orchids, transforming a single tree into a vibrant vertical garden. These epiphytes thrive in the humid atmosphere, utilizing the tree for structural support while drawing nutrients from the air and decaying organic matter. On the forest floor, we observe lines of industrious leafcutter ants traversing the trails, evidence of the thriving ecosystem that surrounds us.

After an invigorating trek through Piedras Blancas, we celebrate our final evening at Amaka with a specially curated tasting menu featuring dishes such as tuna tataki, grilled eggplant, and flambéed banana, each paired thoughtfully with drinks. In the distance, lightning flickers across the darkened water. Our next destination will lead us across Costa Rica toward its northern Pacific coast, where we will trade the rainforest for another distinctive biome.

Lunch with iguanas at El Mangroove on Playa Panamá

Traveling from the southern Pacific to Guanacaste takes visitors through one of Costa Rica's wettest regions and into a tropical dry forest environment.

Nestled on the chocolate-gray sands of Playa Panamá, bordering the Gulf of Papagayo, El Mangroove — part of the Autograph Collection — is designed to harmonize with its natural surroundings, spanning 17 acres. Its suites are positioned back from the beachfront, enveloped in a mangrove forest. During lunch at the al fresco Matiss restaurant, we savor fresh guacamole, fish tacos, and refreshing lemonade to combat the midday warmth. The hotel's resident iguanas, resembling age-old reptiles with slate-like scales, approach curiously, eyeing our fresh fruit.

The multiple pools, including an adults-only oasis, serve as the focal point at El Mangroove, with the expansive Gulf of Papagayo stretching toward the horizon. For those seeking adventure, the beachside center offers an array of activities, including jetski rentals, stand-up paddleboarding, and kayak tours. After a day filled with water sports, guests can indulge in a treatment at Bearth Spa, accessed via a picturesque zigzag boardwalk that floats above lush grass, leading to open-air massage cabanas. This tranquil experience serves as a fitting prelude to dinner at Makoko, where the contemporary Costa Rican cuisine is sourced from local farmers and fishermen, making every dish — from aged beef to the fresh catch of the day — a delight.

A sunset swim in the Gulf of Papagayo

As our final afternoon in Costa Rica unfolds, a sense of bittersweet nostalgia washes over me. We depart Playa Panamá with the changing tide, the captain skillfully guiding the boat along the coastline as daylight gradually wanes.

We find a calm spot to anchor, and without hesitation, I roll into the warm sea. Floating in bliss, I gaze up at the volcanic cliffs and lush vegetation bathed in golden sunlight, the scene unfolding like an exquisite watercolor painting.

Upon reluctantly returning to the boat, where guacamole and chips await, I notice that the sun has descended to eye level. Each vessel we pass is greeted with waves and smiles, and the sounds of reggaeton flow through the warm breeze. As we retrace our route to Playa Panamá, the lights of El Mangroove begin to twinkle through the trees, and the Gulf of Papagayo encircles us.

Pura vida. The expression that defines Costa Rica embodies greetings, farewells, gratitude, or simply affirmations that everything is well. Standing at the back of the boat, as the sky evolves into deep violet hues, I find solace in this sentiment. Pura vida. Everything is indeed all right.

Getting to Golfito and Guanacaste

Golfito can be accessed via a 45-minute domestic flight from San José's Juan Santamaría International Airport (SJO) to Golfito Airport (GLF), with Amaka Ocean Living Lodge located just a five-minute transfer from the airstrip. Guanacaste is served directly by Daniel Oduber Quirós International Airport in Liberia (LIR), which accommodates nonstop flights from San José as well as several major cities in the United States. El Mangroove on Playa Panamá is a convenient 20-minute drive from the airport terminal.