Condé Nast Traveler
To Understand Cape Verde's Soccer Roots, Head to the Beach
As the day nears its end and the temperature drops, Leonardo Lopez and his friends convene at Santa Maria beach in Cape Verde for a game of soccer. They select a flat stretch of white sand, untouched by the waves, and place black volcanic stones to delineate the goals. Fishing boats drift in the glimmering distance, while laughter resonates from teens who dive off the pier into the turquoise waters. The aroma of barbecue fills the air, creating a vibrant atmosphere. Initially, games begin modestly but expand as more participants arrive from the town. The regular players usually carry little more than a towel—predominantly locals employed in the hotels, restaurants, and bars lining the coast. Occasionally, tourists join in, playing alongside those who may have served them during their stay.
"Everywhere on the beach you can see people playing," remarks Lopez, a 25-year-old local and hotel receptionist. The sun in Cape Verde, an archipelago situated 500 miles off the west African coast, rarely sets before 6 p.m. "We enjoy the sunset and play until visibility diminishes."
Sidny Lopes-Cabral, a 23-year-old, holds beach soccer in high esteem as the game's most liberated form. Born in the Netherlands to Cape Verdean parents—part of a diaspora exceeding the island nation's population—he spent family vacations on Santiago Island, refining his skills at Tarrafal Beach, a picturesque cove nestled at the foot of the island's mountains. Currently a professional player for a prominent club in Lisbon and a standout on Cape Verde's national team, Lopes-Cabral cherishes his youthful soccer experiences, seeing his participation in the 2026 World Cup as a culmination of his journey.
The upcoming World Cup will be a significant milestone for Cape Verde as it will be the first occasion the nation has qualified for this prestigious event. Attention will be focused on the second-smallest nation to ever qualify, following Curaçao, which is also making its debut this year. Cape Verde, traditionally seen as an underdog, will face off against heavyweights Spain in their initial match. Regardless of the outcome, this moment represents an opportunity for the nation to express its unique story that transcends its renowned picturesque coastlines and lush mountains.
For the inhabitants of Cape Verde, the love for soccer is intricately linked to the beach lifestyle. Following the team's qualification for the World Cup last November, jubilant celebrations erupted at Quebra Canela Beach with fans joyously welcoming the players. "Everybody was screaming: Let's go! We're there for you!" Lopes-Cabral recalls. "I’ve never witnessed such happiness." Similar celebratory scenes have unfolded in nations such as Haiti, the Democratic Republic of Congo, and Bosnia and Herzegovina, all of which are making long-awaited returns to the global sports stage this summer.
While most individuals in Cape Verde communicate in kriol, the official language in educational institutions is Portuguese, an enduring reminder of colonialism that began in 1462 when Portuguese traders first arrived. On the southern coast of Santiago Island, they established the first European settlement in the tropics, now recognized as Cidade Velha, the country's sole UNESCO World Heritage site, featuring historic churches and cobblestone streets that reflect the town's past as one of the earliest transatlantic slave trading hubs. The haunting remnants of Forte Real de São Filipe—where enslaved Africans were held—serve as a stark reminder of the islands’ complex history, alongside a 16th-century marble pillar at the center of the town square.
For centuries, the colonial powers left Cape Verde underdeveloped, resulting in an economy reliant on imports and lacking industrialization. In the wake of independence from Portugal in 1975, Cape Verde harnessed its most abundant asset—its natural beauty—to boost its economy. Currently, tourism constitutes a quarter of the nation's GDP and accounts for a third of employment, far exceeding any other sector. The local populace takes pride in their cultural ethos of morabeza, a kriol term that embodies a relaxed hospitality.
This welcoming spirit has attracted a steady flow of travelers, primarily from Western Europe, drawn to the islands' volcano hikes and opportunities for snorkeling with sea turtles. With a population of around half a million, Cape Verde maintains an unhurried atmosphere, even amid the bustling tourist season, which coincides with the European winter—a perfect setting for spontaneous football games.
Beach soccer exemplifies the sport's casual essence, with participants of varying numbers utilizing available space, where the sand slows movements and rules are adapted for fluidity—often excluding goalkeepers and corner kicks—creating a sense of connection and excitement. Anyone interested in joining can approach the impromptu pitch, patiently waiting for a lull in play, indicating their desire through eye contact and a nod. Initial sessions often resemble informal showcases of skill, progressively evolving into competitive matches as more players join. Nonetheless, "seriousness" takes on a different meaning here: the idyllic surroundings discourage negativity such as taunting or disputes over fouls.
"You see people playing, and then you join them," Lopes-Cabral shares. "Language barriers are no hindrance."
On the sandy surface, players have the freedom to experiment with ambitious maneuvers, soaring for bicycle kicks or diving headers they might avoid in more rigid settings like pavement or dirt. Spectators marvel at creative touches such as back-heels and nutmegs. "When you play on the beach, it’s all about enjoyment," Lopes-Cabral concludes.
Making History
In 2019, Sal Island hosted the inaugural African Beach Games, where 45 countries participated across 28 disciplines including beach handball, coastal rowing, and open water swimming. Cape Verde excelled, securing 10 medals, notably golds in women's team beach soccer and men's individual freestyle football.
With its extensive 600-mile coastline, Cape Verde offers abundant beach space and a wealth of activities beyond soccer; volleyball nets are set up, runners traverse the shore, and groups gather for food and drinks. "There's a lot of beer, a lot of grilled chicken, and a lot of caipirinhas," describes Soraya Da Silva, 34, from the highlands of Santiago overlooking Praia, the country's largest city with approximately 140,000 residents. Employed at a beachside hotel front desk, Da Silva enjoys the tranquility of Prainha Beach, nestled between rocky outcrops and a historic lighthouse.
Last year, Cape Verde welcomed a record number of over one million visitors and anticipates even greater influxes to come. By early 2025, there are plans for more than 5,000 new hotel rooms, and Airbnb listings have surged, with premium waterfront properties on popular beaches priced above $200 a night.
"When I was young, tourism was hardly noticeable and rarely spoken of," reflects César Frederico, a 52-year-old resident of Praia who owns the Orla restaurant at Quebra Canela. He appreciates the increase in visitors, stating, "It brings me great satisfaction, considering our country lacks extensive natural resources, apart from its sun and sea."
Lina Iliano, who relocated from Belgium ten years ago at age 20, embraced the simplicity of island life and established a travel agency, Cabo Mundo Tours, catering to travelers seeking authentic experiences away from the standard all-inclusive resorts. She arranges itineraries that allow tourists to explore the islands’ volcanic craters, verdant valleys, neoclassical architecture, and surf-friendly waves. Yet the beach remains the main attraction for visitors, who recognize it as a social hub for both locals and travelers, serving as a prime meeting ground. “That’s where connections are made,” Iliano observes.
The national soccer team’s jerseys now showcase a triangular motif based on the island flight routes, worn with pride during matches—reflecting the playful spirit of children kicking a ball along the beach. Many community members hope that the soccer spotlight during the World Cup will boost tourism numbers. Lopes-Cabral, enthusiastic about this potential exposure, envisions more people immersing themselves in the culture that has shaped him.
This momentous event has enlivened the sense of belonging among his teammates, primarily residing and playing for clubs in Europe, with less than half being natives. Yet their pride in donning the blue team colors remains palpable; simply training is already a victory. “At 28, exploring my Cabo Verdean heritage is a tremendous opportunity,” shares Roberto "Pico" Lopes, who was born in Ireland. His first visit to his grandfather’s farm in Cape Verde occurred at age seven, but he remained absent for years until joining the national team and training in Praia. His newfound connections with cousins from Santiago, whom he previously hadn't met, enrich this experience. "It feels like we’ve always known each other."
However, Lopes is not inclined to join in the beach games. "I prefer to watch and enjoy my holiday," he admits. "I don't want to embarrass myself—some of these kids are exceptionally skilled."
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