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News|March 25, 2026|2 min read

Greetings from Turkey's border with Iran, where Iranians let loose on the dance floor

Iranians escaping hardship and war are finding temporary relief at an underground disco in eastern Turkey, where they dance to Persian, Arabic and Turkish music while grappling with complex emotions about leaving their homeland.

#Iran#Turkey#refugees#exile#war#culture#dance#displacement#Middle East

Greetings from Turkey's border with Iran, where Iranians let loose on the dance floor

Far-Flung Postcards is a weekly series in which NPR's international team shares moments from their lives and work around the world.

In the bustling streets of eastern Turkey, an unexpected discovery revealed a hidden world where Iranian refugees and migrants find solace through music and dance.

The underground disco serves as a cultural refuge where diverse groups converge under pulsing lights. Among the crowd, a Sufi dervish mingles with young protesters and former prisoners, while families gather to move to an eclectic mix of Persian, Arabic, and Turkish music spun by local DJs.

Despite the celebratory atmosphere, deeper stories of hardship emerge from conversations with patrons. Many arrived in Turkey years earlier, drawn by economic opportunities and greater political freedoms unavailable in their homeland. For others, this represents a forced exile—individuals who completed prison terms or fled potential persecution, leaving behind loved ones in Iran.

Recent arrivals paint a particularly stark picture of current conditions. One young man, who had crossed the border just days earlier with his ailing mother, described the devastating impact of ongoing U.S. and Israeli military strikes that began in February. He recounted intense bombing and shelling in Tehran, his hometown, which prompted their urgent departure.

The emotional complexity of displacement becomes evident in his candid reflection: "I love my country. This is my home. This is my everything … but this government destroy[ed] my youth and my future."

Beneath the disco's colorful lights, these individuals navigate a delicate balance between hope for their future and an enduring connection to their homeland, finding temporary respite in shared music and movement while contemplating uncertain paths ahead.

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