Hair compost, sugar waxes and refillable shampoo: inside a California low-waste salon

Scisters Salon & Apothecary located in the San Diego area demonstrates a robust commitment to sustainable beauty and emphasizes a low-waste approach.

Upon entering Scisters Salon & Apothecary, patrons immediately notice the absence of the usual elements found in traditional salons. There is no display of glossy plastic bottles boasting claims of "repair" or "shine." The air lacks the sharp chemical smell characteristic of many establishments in the beauty sector. The only receptacle for waste is a small basket, which primarily collects coffee cups and gum wrappers that clients bring from outside.

In lieu of conventional products, the shelves feature sizable refill containers of shampoo and conditioner, complemented by houseplants throughout the space. Hair clippings are collected for composting, and the scent of bergamot and vanilla subtly permeates the air.

"It's the aroma that clients notice right away," states co-founder Melissa Parker. "They enter and say: ‘It smells good in here.’ That seldom happens in a typical salon."

Together with her co-founder Easton Basjec, Parker established Scisters 15 years ago in a strip mall in La Mesa, situated approximately 9 miles east of San Diego. Throughout this time, they have transformed it into one of the region's leading low-waste salons, claiming to divert up to 99% of its waste from landfills.

The beauty industry is often considered waste-heavy; salons across North America reportedly dispose of an estimated 63,000 pounds of hair daily, in addition to hundreds of tons of used foil and leftover hair dye, according to data from Green Circle Salons, a Canadian organization focused on recycling and waste recovery. Furthermore, numerous salon products contain harmful chemicals, such as formaldehyde and lye, which pose potential health hazards.

Both Parker and Basjec firmly believe that the pursuit of beauty need not come at the cost of environmental sustainability or the well-being of salon professionals.

From neighborhood salon to low-waste experiment

Both native to San Diego’s East County, the two business partners met while employed at another salon and subsequently took business courses together at a local community college. In 2010, they launched their own seven-chair salon, naming it Scisters as a tribute to their strong friendship.

Initially, the salon operated similarly to other boutique establishments, offering a diverse range of services and retailing over 150 products from a large corporate brand. Parker shared that they gravitated towards brands claiming sustainability—those that promised to plant trees or contribute to charities with each sale. "We always considered the planet," she mentions, "but not to the extent that we do now."

A critical shift occurred several years later when Basjec viewed a documentary about the zero-waste movement, prompting him to reevaluate the environmental impact of the beauty industry. Concurrently, Parker began experiencing significant health issues linked to ongoing exposure to salon chemicals.

Research indicates that hair stylists face heightened risks of conditions such as asthma, skin disorders, reproductive health issues, and cancer due to their exposure to toxic substances like formaldehyde, ammonia, and sulfates. Following a warning from a naturopath that she might need to leave the hairstyling profession, an outcome Parker found "terrifying," the duo decided to enact significant changes within their salon rather than abandon the field entirely.

They began with a comprehensive review of their service offerings and product line. The decision to discontinue perms was made due to the presence of formaldehyde in these treatments. They also opted to move away from the large-brand shampoos and conditioners, recognizing that despite their green marketing claims, many were packaged in plastic bottles and contained substances they wished to avoid.

In their search for alternatives, they found that no existing products met their rigorous benchmarks for performance, ingredient transparency, and waste reduction. "We understood that if we switched to products that didn’t perform effectively, we could risk losing clients," Parker explains.

To overcome this challenge, the two enrolled in online formulation design courses and spent years creating their own line of products. "Stability testing, packaging, preservatives – we had no idea how intricate it would be," reflects Basjec.

In 2019, they unveiled Element, a product line manufactured in a California lab and packaged in refillable glass and aluminum containers. These products feature easily recognizable ingredients such as organic aloe, wheat protein, and castor oil. Customers are encouraged to take advantage of the salon’s "jar library," which consists of donated and sanitized jars from pasta sauces or salsas to facilitate the refill process.

Designing out waste

In addition to their refill program, the salon staff reexamined their waste management strategies in several innovative ways.

"I engaged with the local waste management company and successfully negotiated for them to accept hair scraps for composting," states Basjec. The pair also began recycling foils instead of discarding them. Additionally, instead of traditional waxing methods, Scisters adopted sugaring—a hair removal technique utilizing a compostable paste made from sugar, water, and lemon. Parker outlines the benefits: "It’s water-soluble, reusable within the same session, and, unlike waxing, doesn’t involve plastic." In the restroom, customers are provided with washable cloths rather than disposable paper towels for drying their hands. Furthermore, Parker and Basjec reassessed their energy consumption, transitioning to LED lighting and incorporating Ecoheads sprayers.